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The Kreuzberge from the Saxer Lücke on the afternoon of Day 2.
The Kreuzberge from the Saxer Lücke on the afternoon of Day 2.

Europe · Switzerland

Alpstein and the Saxer Lücke

Appenzell, Switzerland

Distance
19.7 mi31.7 km
Days
2 days
Elevation gain
7,736 ft2,358 m
High point
6,188 ft1,886 m
Season
I went September 18 and 19, 2024
Lodging
Huts
Plan this hike

Hikes / Europe / Alpstein and the Saxer Lücke

In September 2024 I spent two days hiking in the Alpstein, the mountains of Appenzell in northeast Switzerland. I went up from Wasserauen past the Seealpsee and the Aescher, the inn built into the cliff, to a night at the Berggasthaus Schäfler on its ridge. The next day I walked past Mesmer, the Seealpsee again and Meglisalp, over the Widderalpsattel to Bollenwees on the Fälensee, up to the Saxer Lücke, and along the Stauberen ridge to the cable car at Staubern. Two days, about 20 miles by my GPS. It's the trip from my film Hiking to Saxer Lücke in Switzerland.

Kraig Adams

Effort at this pace: Hard · about 10 mi (16 km) and 3,868 ft (1,179 m) of climbing a day over 2 days, up to 6,188 ft (1,886 m). Our grade for the days given, worked out from distance, climbing and altitude a day; it isn't the trail's usual difficulty rating (under Basics) and doesn't rate exposure, terrain or weather.

Where these numbers come from

From Kraig Adams's GPS recording and guide.

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From Kraig Adams's GPS

The route, day by day

Relief map of the Saxer Lücke route: 2 days drawn in red with numbered day starts, labelled Wasserauen, Staubern, Freiheit and Schäfler.

Elevation2,848–6,188 ft19.7 mi

From Kraig Adams's GPS. Terrain: Mapzen Terrain Tiles (EU-DEM, SRTM) on AWS · Glaciers, rivers & lakes © OpenStreetMap contributors

Tap a day for his map of it

  • Read day 1
  • Read day 2

The film

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Hiking to Saxer Lücke in Switzerland

Kraig Adams · Sep 2024 · Solo

The Kreuzberge from the Saxer Lücke on the afternoon of Day 2.
The Kreuzberge from the Saxer Lücke on the afternoon of Day 2.
The Seealpsee on the afternoon of Day 1.
The Seealpsee on the afternoon of Day 1.
The Berggasthaus Schäfler on its ridge, the morning of Day 2.
The Berggasthaus Schäfler on its ridge, the morning of Day 2.

Before you go

The basics

Start
Wasserauen station, 2,848 ft (868 m), the end of the Appenzeller Bahnen line from Appenzell
Finish
The Staubern cable car, about 5,720 ft (1,744 m), down to Frümsen in the Rhine valley
Usual difficulty
White-red-white mountain trails the whole way, with steep, exposed stretches secured with cables. Snow lingers into summer and can come back in September
Best time
I went September 18 and 19, 2024
Permits
None. You book the mountain inns directly
Getting there
My way in, 2024. I came to Switzerland for Creator Camp, a trip for a big group of creators, then spent a few days on my own in the St. Gallen area, recharging and getting ready to shoot. On the morning of Day 1 I was sick and took half the day to rest in town. By late morning I was in Appenzell; I took the train to Wasserauen, about 12 minutes, and started walking at 1:17 p.m.
Lodging
Huts

From Kraig Adams's guide

Costs and gear

What it cost

Train from St

His costs, line by line

What Kraig carried

my backpack · Arc’teryx Cerium Hoody · Crocs Classic Clog · my tent and sleeping gear · Holafly eSIM · Naturehike ZY20 Sleeping Bag Liner · Hyperlite Mountain Gear Waypoint 35 · Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Z Poles and 16 more.

The full gear list

From Kraig Adams's guide

Safety

Rescue numbers

  • Emergency: 1414 (Rega), 144, 112.

Phone signal

  • The Rega app sends your position with the alarm, but needs at least some phone signal.
  • The federal coverage map predicts a signal along the whole route, but not in every gully; if you have none, move and try again, or try 112.

Insurance

  • A GHIC or EHIC is not an alternative to travel insurance.
  • Your policy should include mountain rescue, helicopter costs and repatriation.

Bail-out points

  • Day 1, Wasserauen to Schäfler. At any point before Ebenalp, go back down to the Seealpsee and on to Wasserauen. From Ebenalp the cable car goes down to Wasserauen in 6 minutes; in late September and October 2026 the last ride down was at 5:30 p.m. The Seealpsee, the Aescher and Ebenalp all have beds (see Huts and rules). In an emergency call 1414 (Rega, the air rescue) or 144.
  • Day 2, Schäfler to Staubern over the Saxer Lücke. Mesmer, the Seealpsee, Meglisalp, Bollenwees and Staubern all have beds. From Mesmer or Meglisalp, the way out is down to the Seealpsee and Wasserauen. From Bollenwees, a trail goes down past the Sämtisersee to Brülisau, where bus 192 runs to Weissbad station (the last bus in 2026 at 6:14 p.m.). From the Saxer Lücke you can go back down to Bollenwees, or on along the ridge to the Staubern cable car, which ran until 10 p.m.

From Kraig Adams's guide. For planning, not navigation: check before you go.

Their films and versions

Creators who've done it

1 creator so far: Kraig, 2 days, huts.

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Your time

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Typical: 2 days (the hike's facts).

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Planning questions about Alpstein and the Saxer Lücke, answered only from this page's facts, the creators' versions and hikers' public tracks, with where each answer comes from. When the data doesn't say, the answer says "not given".

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    Answered from the data

    Questions people ask

    How many days do you need for Alpstein and the Saxer Lücke?

    I did it in two, with one night at the Schäfler. If you don't want to go back down to the Seealpsee as I did, you can do it in two shorter days, or spread it over three with a night at Bollenwees or Meglisalp. See Other ways to do it.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    How much does Alpstein and the Saxer Lücke cost?

    Train from St. Gallen to Wasserauen CHF 12.60; from Zürich CHF 41 (Supersaver from CHF 30.80). The Ebenalp cable car CHF 24 one way. The Staubern cable car CHF 20 one way. Meglisalp's dorm with half board CHF 90; Bollenwees's dorm CHF 50 to 60, with breakfast. Tourist tax CHF 2.50 a night. Parking at Wasserauen up to CHF 15.75 for 24 hours.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    When is the best time to hike Alpstein and the Saxer Lücke?

    The high trails have their season from about the end of June to October, and the inns open from about May to early November. I went in mid-September, a few days after an early snowstorm left snow on the high passes. Summer has the most rain and thunderstorms; September and October are drier.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Do you need a permit for Alpstein and the Saxer Lücke?

    No. You pay for the cable cars and book the inns.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    How do you hike to the Saxer Lücke?

    The Saxer Lücke is a gap in the Alpstein ridge above the Fälensee, on the border between Appenzell Innerrhoden and St. Gallen. I reached it on the second day of a 2-day hike from Wasserauen, up from Berggasthaus Bollenwees at the east end of the Fälensee: 26 minutes and about 590 ft of climbing (the signpost says 35 minutes). From the gap a ridge trail runs northeast to Staubern, where a cable car goes down to Frümsen in the Rhine valley.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    How long is the hike from Wasserauen to the Saxer Lücke?

    My route was 19.7 miles (31.7 km) over two days, with about 7,740 ft of climbing: 7.1 miles on Day 1 from Wasserauen past the Seealpsee, the Aescher and Ebenalp to the Berggasthaus Schäfler, and 12.6 miles on Day 2 past Mesmer, the Seealpsee again and Meglisalp, over the Widderalpsattel to Bollenwees, the Saxer Lücke and Staubern.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Is the Saxer Lücke hike open?

    Yes. In October 2026 the official Swiss closures map showed nothing on the route, and Appenzell tourism's trail report said the trails were in very good condition. A rockfall warning was posted above the Seealpsee in September 2026. Most of the mountain inns are open from May to about November 1.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Can you camp at the Saxer Lücke?

    No. Appenzell tourism says wild camping isn't allowed in the Alpstein, the canton is drafting a law that would allow a bivouac only with the landowner's permission, and the St. Gallen side says wild camping up high isn't wanted. Sleep in one of the mountain inns, such as Bollenwees, Meglisalp or Staubern.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    How do you get back from the Saxer Lücke?

    Walk northeast along the ridge to the Berggasthaus Staubern and take the Staubern cable car down to Frümsen; in 2026 it ran daily until 10 p.m. from May to October, CHF 20 one way. Bus 411 runs hourly from Frümsen to the trains, about 1.5 hours to St. Gallen. Or walk back down to Bollenwees and on to Brülisau.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Plan this hikeThe route