Hiking Alone in Brazil
Kraig AdamsApr 2024 · Solo
- Days
- 2 days
- Cost
- about R$520 to R$920
- Lodging
- Tent
South America · Brazil
Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis
Serra dos Órgãos, Brazil
- Distance
- 18.9 mi30.4 km
- Days
- 2 days
- Elevation gain
- 6,329 ft1,929 m
- High point
- 7,241 ft2,207 m
- Season
- Hikers report June to August as the…
- Lodging
- Tent
Hikes / South America / Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis
At the end of April 2024 I hiked the Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis alone in Serra dos Órgãos National Park, Brazil. I started at the Bonfim entrance above Petrópolis late in the morning, climbed onto the granite ridge and pitched my tent at the Castelos do Açu camp. The next day I left in the dark at 4:17 a.m., watched the sunrise at the Portais de Hércules, crossed the high peaks past Pedra do Sino and walked down to the Teresópolis side. By my GPS it was 18.9 miles (30.4 km) and about 6,330 ft (1,930 m) of climbing in two days. It's the trip from my film Hiking Alone in Brazil.
Kraig Adams
Effort at this pace: Hard · about 9 mi (15 km) and 3,164 ft (965 m) of climbing a day over 2 days, up to 7,241 ft (2,207 m). Our grade for the days given, worked out from distance, climbing and altitude a day; it isn't the trail's usual difficulty rating (under Basics) and doesn't rate exposure, terrain or weather.
Where these numbers come from
From Kraig Adams's GPS recording and guide.
From Kraig Adams's GPS
The route, day by day
Elevation3,209–7,241 ft18.9 mi
From Kraig Adams's GPS. Terrain: Mapzen Terrain Tiles (SRTM, GMTED) on AWS · Rivers & lakes © OpenStreetMap contributors
Tap a day for his map of it
The film
Watch it first
Hiking Alone in Brazil
Before you go
The basics
- Start
- The Bonfim entrance (Sede Petrópolis), about 1,100 m by ICMBio
- Finish
- The Barragem trailhead on the Teresópolis side, 3,832 ft (1,168 m) by my GPS, about 2 miles of road above the park's main gate
- Usual difficulty
- Hard. It's steep and rocky, with scrambling: the park names the Elevador (iron rungs up a rock face) and the Cavalinho, "the most dangerous point." Fog makes the route easy to lose. If you haven't scrambled on rock with a pack, go with a guide or someone who knows the route.
- Best time
- Hikers report June to August as the driest, clearest months. I went at the end of April. The park is closed on Mondays, except holidays, and no camp can start on a Monday.
- Permits
- Online booking, a signed risk form (TCRN), free for now, closed Mondays
- Getting there
- From Rio to Petrópolis. Única Fácil buses run from Rio's Rodoviária Novo Rio, about 1 hour 10 to 1 hour 20 minutes, at least hourly, about R$47 (as reported). Most arrive at the Leonel Brizola bus station, a bit out of the center (as reported). I found no direct bus from either Rio airport.
- Lodging
- Tent
From Kraig Adams's guide
Costs and gear
Bookings and permits
When bookings open, from the sources named under each. Dates move: confirm on the official site.
Serra dos Órgãos traverse camp bookings
Dates open two months ahead at midnight (the park's example: August 1 opens on June 1). Book the day dates open; there's no waiting list.
Opens a set time before your start date: make a plan with your dates to see yours.
Source: Kraig Adams's Petrópolis to Teresópolis guide: The rules (checked Oct 10, 2026). Checked October 2026.
Alert me when bookings open
From Kraig Adams's guide
Safety
Rescue numbers
- Rescue. The park says it isn't responsible for rescue. Call the fire brigade (Corpo de Bombeiros) on 193.
Phone signal
- Don't count on one.
- Hikers report no reception at either trailhead (as reported).
Insurance
- Private hospitals in Brazil ask for proof of insurance or funds, so make sure your travel insurance covers local treatment and medical evacuation.
Bail-out points
- Day 1, Bonfim to Castelos do Açu. Ajax. If you're slow, short of water or the weather is turning, decide here: you can't camp at Ajax, and above it the trail gets steeper and more exposed. The way off is back down to Bonfim.
- Day 2, Castelos do Açu to Teresópolis. Before you drop into the Vale da Luva. If the fog is down, the wind is strong or anyone is struggling, go back to the Açu camp and down to Bonfim: past the Vale da Luva the way off is forward, over the Elevador and the Cavalinho. If you're slow, stop at the Abrigo 4 camp (with a booking) rather than walking down in the dark.
From Kraig Adams's guide. For planning, not navigation: check before you go.
Their films and versions
Creators who've done it
1 creator so far: Kraig, 2 days, $100–$180, tent.
Hiking Alone in Brazil
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Typical: 2 days (the hike's facts).
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Planning questions about Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis, answered only from this page's facts, the creators' versions and hikers' public tracks, with where each answer comes from. When the data doesn't say, the answer says "not given".
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Answered from the data
Questions people ask
How many days do you need for Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis?
Two for me. ICMBio plans three: Bonfim to Castelos do Açu, then to Pedra do Sino, then down to Teresópolis. See Other ways to do it.
From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.
How much does Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis cost?
Two days from Rio by bus for one person comes to about R$520 to R$920 (about US$100 to US$180), most of it a night in Petrópolis; park entry and camping were free. Rough US dollars at about R$5 to US$1 (Banco Central do Brasil, R$4.99 on October 9, 2026).
From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.
When is the best time to hike Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis?
Hikers report June to August as the driest, clearest months. I went at the end of April. The park is closed on Mondays, except holidays, and no camp can start on a Monday.
From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.
Do you need a permit for Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis?
For an overnight trip, yes: an online booking with ICMBio, which opens two months ahead at midnight, plus a signed risk form (the TCRN) handed in at the entrance. A day hike needs only the form. In October 2026 entry and camping were free; ICMBio plans a new operator from January 2027, which may charge fees.
From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.
How long is the Petrópolis-Teresópolis traverse?
ICMBio, the park service, says about 30 km. My GPS recorded 18.9 miles (30.4 km) and about 6,330 ft (1,930 m) of climbing over two days, from Bonfim above Petrópolis to the Teresópolis side. ICMBio plans and recommends three days.
From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.
Where do you sleep on the Petrópolis-Teresópolis traverse?
In your own tent, only at the two designated camps beside the Açu shelter (Castelos do Açu) and Abrigo 4 (Pedra do Sino). In October 2026 both shelters were closed to overnight guests; the Açu shelter has no staff or support at all, and Abrigo 4 opens only mornings and evenings for its kitchen and dining room.
From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.
Do you need a guide for the Petrópolis-Teresópolis traverse?
ICMBio recommends a guide but doesn't require one; without one, someone in the group must know the route. It's steep and rocky, with iron rungs and scrambles like the Cavalinho, where ICMBio says a rope is mandatory, and fog makes the route easy to lose. I hiked it alone.
From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.
How do you get to the Petrópolis-Teresópolis traverse from Rio?
Take a bus from Rio's Rodoviária Novo Rio to Petrópolis (about 1 hour 10 to 1 hour 20 minutes), then a city bus or taxi to the Bonfim entrance. From Teresópolis, buses run back to Rio roughly hourly, about 2 hours (as reported in 2026).
From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.