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The sea of clouds from the PR1 on the morning of Day 4.
The sea of clouds from the PR1 on the morning of Day 4.
Distance
29.6 mi47.7 km
Days
8 days
Elevation gain
10,463 ft3,189 m
High point
6,109 ft1,862 m
Season
April to May and September to October…
Lodging
Hotels and guesthouses
Plan this hike

Hikes / Europe / Madeira

In April 2023 I spent eight days alone on Madeira, the Portuguese island in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa. I didn't do a thru-hike. I rented a car, slept in hotels and did day hikes from the road: Pico Grande from the Valley of the Nuns, Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo above the clouds, the old laurel trees at Fanal, part of the Levada do Caldeirão Verde, and Ponta de São Lourenço at the east end. In between I drove the coast from Ponta do Sol to Porto Moniz, Seixal and Machico. About 29.6 miles (47.7 km) of hiking and 10,462 ft (3,189 m) of climbing by my GPS. It's the trip from my films 8 Days of Traveling and Hiking in Madeira and Madeira in 8 Days.

Kraig Adams

Effort at this pace: Easy · about 4 mi (6 km) and 1,308 ft (399 m) of climbing a day over 8 days, up to 6,109 ft (1,862 m). Our grade for the days given, worked out from distance, climbing and altitude a day; it isn't the trail's usual difficulty rating (under Basics) and doesn't rate exposure, terrain or weather.

Where these numbers come from

From Kraig Adams's GPS recording and guide.

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From Kraig Adams's GPS

The route, day by day

The film

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8 Days of Traveling and Hiking in Madeira

Kraig Adams · Apr 11–18, 2023 · Solo

The sea of clouds from the PR1 on the morning of Day 4.
The sea of clouds from the PR1 on the morning of Day 4.
Funchal from above: the hotels, the marina and the hills behind.
Funchal from above: the hotels, the marina and the hills behind.
Pico do Areeiro in the cloud on Day 3, the morning I put the hike off.
Pico do Areeiro in the cloud on Day 3, the morning I put the hike off.
Sunrise over the clouds from the PR1, Day 4.
Sunrise over the clouds from the PR1, Day 4.
Looking out to the end of Ponta de São Lourenço from the PR8, Day 6.
Looking out to the end of Ponta de São Lourenço from the PR8, Day 6.

Before you go

The basics

Start
Funchal, after landing at Madeira airport (FNC)
Finish
Santo da Serra, then home from Madeira airport (FNC)
Direction
Day hikes from a rental car, sleeping in hotels around the island
Usual difficulty
Pico Grande and the PR1: steep climbs, stairs, drops, short scrambles or tunnels. Fanal, the levada and Ponta de São Lourenço: easy to moderate
Best time
April to May and September to October are the usual picks: less rain than winter and less heat and fewer people than summer. The mountains are much colder than the coast, with ice on some winter days, and the clouds can cover the peaks at any time of year.
Permits
Every classified trail (PR) needs a time slot booked and paid online first: €4.50 a trail, €10.50 for the full PR1. The PR1 is one-way past Pedra Rija
Getting there
Flying in. Madeira's airport is Cristiano Ronaldo International (FNC), at Santa Cruz on the east side of the island, about 25 to 30 minutes from Funchal. I flew from Denver with a connection in New York. United flew Newark to Funchal nonstop about three times a week in summer 2026 (mid-May to late September, as reported); outside that season, connect in Lisbon (about 1 hour 45 minutes, many flights a day), Porto or a UK airport.
Lodging
Hotels and guesthouses

From Kraig Adams's guide

Costs and gear

What it cost

about US$1,350 to US$2,220 (about €1,215 to €2,000, ECB rate 2026-11-12)

His costs, line by line

What Kraig carried

Not given

The full gear list

From Kraig Adams's guide

Safety

Rescue numbers

  • Emergency: 112.

Phone signal

  • An eSIM for Portugal gave me Google Maps and 5G the whole time.
  • The signal drops in deep valleys, the laurel forest, on the high ridges and in long tunnels.

Insurance

  • A GHIC or EHIC is not an alternative to travel insurance.
  • Get travel insurance that suits your trip; the UK advice says hiking in Madeira can be challenging.

Bail-out points

  • Day 2, Pico Grande from Curral das Freiras. The ridge, before the summit rocks, is the place to decide. If the cloud has come down, the rock is wet or the wind is strong, the view from the ridge is already worth it: skip the scramble.
  • Day 4, Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, then the west coast. Pedra Rija is the last place you can turn around on the PR1 before it becomes one-way. If the cloud is down, it's windy or wet, or the stairs are icy, turn around there. After that you're committed to Pico Ruivo.
  • Day 5, Fanal and the north coast. When the fog is thick, stay close to the parking. It's easy to lose your bearings in the meadow.
  • Day 6, The Levada do Caldeirão Verde and Ponta de São Lourenço. On the levada: any time the cloud comes in or the path gets slippery; it's the same way back. At Ponta de São Lourenço: the Casa do Sardinha is the natural end; the climb up Pico do Furado is steep and exposed in wind.

From Kraig Adams's guide. For planning, not navigation: check before you go.

Their films and versions

Creators who've done it

1 creator so far: Kraig, 8 days, $1,350–$2,220, hotels.

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Your time

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Typical: 8 days (the hike's facts).

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Planning questions about Madeira, answered only from this page's facts, the creators' versions and hikers' public tracks, with where each answer comes from. When the data doesn't say, the answer says "not given".

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    Answered from the data

    Questions people ask

    How many days do you need for Madeira?

    Kraig Adams hiked it in 8 days.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    How much does Madeira cost?

    8 days for one person, as I did it, comes to about €1,215 to €2,000 before flights and fuel:

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    When is the best time to hike Madeira?

    April to May and September to October are the usual picks: less rain than winter and less heat and fewer people than summer. The mountains are much colder than the coast, with ice on some winter days, and the clouds can cover the peaks at any time of year.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Do you need a permit for Madeira?

    You need a booking. Since January 1, 2026, every classified trail needs a 30-minute time slot booked and paid on the SIMplifica portal before you start. There's no payment at the trailhead. See The rules.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Do you need to book hiking trails on Madeira?

    Yes, since January 1, 2026. Every classified trail (PR) needs a 30-minute time slot booked and paid in advance on the SIMplifica portal: €4.50 a trail, €10.50 for the full PR1 to Pico Ruivo. Children 12 and under and Madeira residents don't pay but still book. There's no payment at the trailhead.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Can you hike Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo and back?

    Not any more. Since the PR1 reopened in 2026 it's one-way, toward Pico Ruivo, past the Pedra Rija viewpoint. Walk from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo and down to Achada do Teixeira and get a taxi back, walk Pico do Areeiro to Pedra Rija and back, or walk up to Pico Ruivo from Achada do Teixeira and back.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    How far is the PR1 from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo?

    Officially 6.1 km, plus 2.8 km down the PR1.2 to Achada do Teixeira. My out-and-back in April 2023 from the Pico do Areeiro parking, by way of Achada do Teixeira, was 12.5 miles and about 5,100 ft of climbing by my GPS, about 7.5 hours with stops.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Do you need a car on Madeira?

    It helps a lot. The trailheads are high and spread around the island, and the weather changes fast, so a car lets you go back when the clouds clear. There is a daily bus from Funchal to Pico do Areeiro and buses toward Santana and Baía d'Abra, but none to Queimadas, Achada do Teixeira or Fanal.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Is Pico Grande on the booking system?

    The route I hiked, from the village of Curral das Freiras, isn't one of the classified PR routes, so it wasn't on the forest service's list or in the booking system in October 2026. The classified PR12 from Boca da Corrida was only partly open.

    From Kraig Adams's trip and guide.

    Plan this hikeThe route