Howe Sound Crest Trail, Kraig Adams's way

My way in, 2023. This was the first of four hiking films I shot in two weeks up and down the Pacific Northwest, with just a carry-on and three rental cars from three airports. I flew from New York to Vancouver the day before. Locals had told me to go to Nemesis Coffee, so I did. Because the trail is point to point, I asked for help, and a local subscriber went way out of his way to come after work, pick me up at the end of the trail where I'd left my car, and drive me to the beginning. I started walking at the ski area at 4:45 p.m.

The start: Cypress Mountain. Take Highway 1 to exit 8 in West Vancouver and drive Cypress Bowl Road to the end, at the downhill ski area: about 40 km (25 miles) and 45 to 55 minutes from the airport outside rush hour. The trail starts near the bottom of the Lions Express chairlift, about 25 m north of the BC Parks kiosk in front of Cypress Creek Lodge. Cypress Bowl Road was being repaved in 2026, due to finish by the end of October.

Parking overnight: Lot 3B only. Parking at Cypress is free all year in Lot 3B. If you leave your car overnight anywhere else, BC Parks says it will be towed, and a search may be started for you. Lot 3B is below the lodge, about 1 km (0.6 miles) from the trailhead, as reported.

The finish: Porteau Road. The trail ends at a parking lot off Highway 99 (the Sea to Sky Highway), about 2 km south of Porteau Cove Provincial Park, as reported. Follow the kiosk's directions and the signed detour between the lot and the trail. Cypress to Porteau is about 45 minutes by car.

How to do the two ends.

• Two cars: leave one at Porteau Road and drive the other to Cypress. The simplest way. BC Parks posts no overnight rule for the Porteau lot (October 2026); check the kiosk and leave nothing in the car.
• One car and a ride, like me: park at Porteau Road and get dropped at Cypress, or park in Lot 3B and arrange a pickup at Porteau. Ride-hailing apps work in Lions Bay and Squamish, but pickups can take a while, and I found nothing reliable about the phone signal at the Porteau lot. Book it ahead.
• No car: there's no public transport to either end. Cypress Coach Lines, a private shuttle, runs to Cypress from Vancouver in some summers (C$19 one way plus fees and tax on its fares page, which doesn't say for which year); a taxi from Park Royal in West Vancouver is about C$35 to C$45, as reported. Nothing stops at Porteau. The Squamish Connector coach (C$37 one way) stops at Britannia Beach and Lions Bay, both too far to walk to at the end of the day, so you'd still need a taxi.

Flying in. Bear spray and stove fuel aren't allowed on planes in either direction. Buy fuel in Vancouver; MEC, the big Canadian outdoor store, is at 111 East 2nd Avenue, as reported.

What it costs

I didn't keep a list of what this trip cost me.

For your budget (Canadian dollars, as checked in October 2026; 2026 summer prices were pushed up by the World Cup in Vancouver):

That's roughly C$385 to C$730 for one person for three nights from Vancouver on buses and in hostels, or C$1,130 to C$1,900 with a rental car and hotels, food included and flights not. Two people sharing a car and a room pay about C$650 to C$1,100 each. A second car, or a friend with one, saves the ride from Porteau.

The rules and camping

These were checked on BC Parks' own pages and trail map on October 3, 2026.

No permit, no fee. Cypress isn't on BC Parks' list of parks with backcountry permits or fees, and its pages mention none for the trail.

Where to camp. Wilderness camping is allowed only on the Howe Sound Crest Trail in summer, north of Strachan Meadows. The preferred areas are Magnesia Meadows (14.5 km from the ski area by BC Parks' count), Brunswick Lake (19 km) and Deeks Lake (22 km). By my GPS they're farther: Magnesia Meadows 10.4 miles (16.7 km), Brunswick Lake 13 miles (20.8 km) and Deeks Lake 15.1 miles (24.3 km) from the trailhead. There are no tent pads; camp where others have camped before.

Shelters and the toilet. Magnesia Meadows and Brunswick Lake have small red A-frame emergency shelters. They're for emergencies, not for planning your nights around. The only toilet on the trail is a pit toilet at Magnesia Meadows. Elsewhere, bury your waste at least 100 m (330 ft) from the trail and any water.

Food. Hang all food and anything with a scent overnight; BC Parks also accepts a bear-proof canister. There are no food lockers on the trail.

Other rules. No campfires at any time. No drones without permission. Dogs on a leash. No smoking or vaping, no alcohol, no bikes or e-bikes. No entry to the Capilano watershed east of the crest, which includes the East Lion. Pack out everything you pack in.

Where I slept, food and water

Where I slept

My camp. A rocky spot on the narrow ridge north of Unnecessary Mountain, below the West Lion, with the sound below to the west and the sunset over the water. No water, no toilet and very exposed: pick it only on a calm, clear night, with your water carried up.

Food and water

What I ate. I cooked on a Jetboil and lit it with a flint starter, which always makes using it more fun. A new snack on this trip was salt and vinegar pistachios: top-tier delicious. At the end I ate some blueberries.

Water. Fill up at Strachan Meadows (Montizambert Creek), the last reliable water, or carry it from the car, and carry everything for the evening and the next morning if you camp near the Lions, about 4 liters per person, as hikers commonly advise. In mid-July there was some snow to melt in certain spots. From Magnesia Meadows on there's water in tarns, streams and lakes. Treat it all.

What I carried

From my film and photos (I have no full gear list for this trip):

Hiking

• Pack: everything for one night, carry-on size, because I was flying between four hikes
• Sleeping: a small one-person tent
• Cooking: a Jetboil stove with a flint starter; snow to melt where there was some

Filmmaking

• Camera: my camera on a tripod for the sunset, and a drone. My full gear kit is on kraigadams.com

Other

• Navigation: the AllTrails and Strava apps, which recorded both days

What this hike needs:

• Water for the dry stretch (about 4 liters each from Strachan Meadows), a filter, and a stove
• A bear hang kit or a bear canister for your food, and bear spray (buy it in Vancouver)
• A head net and bug repellent in July and early August
• Layers and a rain jacket: fog, cold and rain can come in summer
• The offline map and GPX files, and a satellite messenger
• Sturdy shoes and confidence using your hands on rock

Is it open? (October 2026)

Checked on BC Parks' own pages for Cypress Provincial Park (the park page, its trail map, its trail report dated August 21, 2026, and its advisories) on October 3, 2026.

Open. BC Parks listed no closure on the Howe Sound Crest Trail. Its three advisories all showed the park open.

Construction at the camps. BC Parks posted that "facility construction will be occurring at Magnesia Meadows, Brunswick Lake, and Deeks Lake starting September 16" 2026, with no end date, and is writing a plan for the trail's facilities as more people hike it. It didn't say what's being built. Facilities, and maybe the camping rules, could be different in 2027, so check the park page before you go.

Seasons. The short stretch through the ski area, between Binkert Junction (near the resort, not the Binkert trail from Lions Bay) and the resort, is open to hikers only from June 1 to October 31, so it doesn't clash with skiing. BC Parks strongly discourages going past Bowen Lookout in winter: avalanche terrain. Hikers usually find the trail clear of snow from about July to early October.

Fire. A small lightning fire burned near Unnecessary Mountain above Lions Bay on August 23 and 24, 2026, and was held, as reported; the trail wasn't closed. In dry summers, fire bans and trailhead closures can come quickly: Lions Bay closed its trailhead parking for about a month in August 2023, a few weeks after my hike, as reported.

What to do. Check the BC Parks page for Cypress Park (its advisories) and its trail report the week before you go.

Update, November 2026. BC Parks' Cypress Park page (trail report dated November 5, 2026) now strongly discourages winter travel along the Howe Sound Crest Trail past Bowen Lookout, and warns of dangerous winter conditions in the park. From November 1 to May 31 backcountry users go through the ski area by the backcountry access corridor and pick up a free tag at the Brown Bag Room in Black Mountain Lodge. The October details above are how it stood when I checked.

Mid-July. I hiked on July 18 and 19, 2023. Day 1 was hotter than expected, but with lots of tree cover. There were barely any snow patches, plenty of flowing water on the second half toward the lakes, and the bugs were crazy. They didn't bite, but they tried to go in your eyes, your ears and your nose. At camp I basically had to hide in my tent. I need to hike in autumn more often.

Summer to early autumn. The trail is usually free of snow from about July to early October; in some years snow lingers past mid-July on the north sides of Unnecessary, below the Lions and on the drops off James and David Peaks. Hikers report the bugs at Magnesia Meadows are worst in July and early August. September is cooler, with fewer bugs and fewer people, and less water: some sources on the first half dry up by late August.

Late autumn to spring. Snow, short days and avalanche terrain. BC Parks says winter travel past Bowen Lookout isn't recommended, and the trail by the ski area is closed to hikers from November to May.

Weather. BC Parks says to expect cold, foggy and wet conditions even in summer, and it changes fast. Normals for Hollyburn Ridge, 930 m (3,050 ft), about the height of the Cypress trailhead (Environment Canada, 1971 to 2000, as published on Wikipedia). The ridge is 1,300 to 1,600 m (4,300 to 5,200 ft), so a few degrees colder:

Heat waves do reach the ridge: the record highs in those months are over 86 °F (30 °C), and wildfire smoke can haze the views.

Weather, bugs and safety

Emergencies. Call 911. Search and rescue is free in BC, helicopter included. The Howe Sound Crest Trail, the Lions and Brunswick Mountain are among Lions Bay Search and Rescue's busiest areas; most calls come between 3 and 6 p.m., often to hikers who misjudged the time and effort. Leave your plan with someone and carry a satellite messenger: the phone signal is unreliable.

Fog and navigation. BC Parks warns that the trail is easy to lose in bad weather, that the markers are intermittent north of the Lions, and that if fog closes in and you get lost, you should stay where you are. Have the GPX on your phone before you start.

Scrambles and drops. BC Parks: cliffs, scree slopes and exposed ridgelines. The hardest parts are between the Lions and Magnesia Meadows. Don't go up the Lions or Brunswick's summit in snow.

Water and heat. The first half is dry and can be hot. People get cramps and heat exhaustion near St. Mark's, as reported. Start early on hot days and carry enough water.

Bugs. I'd already been scarred by the bugs in Scotland. These didn't bite, but they were very annoying and went for my eyes, ears and nose. Bring a head net.

Wildlife. Black bears are common in the park, and cougars are seen sometimes. Make noise, never feed or approach them, hang your food, and carry bear spray: BC Parks' trail report says to.

Creeks. Some creeks in the park have no bridges and can be dangerous after heavy rain. If in doubt, don't cross.

How many days do I need? I did it in a day and a half: an afternoon to the Lions and a full day to the highway. You could do it as a really big day hike, but sleeping up on the ridge with the sunset was the whole point for me. Most people take two days; a slower pace or a later start makes it three.

How hard is it? Definitely more difficult than I expected. The first day reminded me of the old-growth, rocky, rooty trails in the Adirondacks, where I grew up. On the second day, up on the ridge, it's very up and down and deceivingly difficult; the scrambles in the middle were more intense than I expected. After the lakes it gets easy, and a bit boring. BC Parks says it's for experienced, well-equipped backcountry hikers only past Bowen Lookout, and it's one of the busiest rescue areas for Lions Bay Search and Rescue.

Do I need a permit or a reservation? No, in 2026. There's no permit, no reservation and no camping fee for the trail. Garibaldi, further up the Sea to Sky Highway, is the only BC park that needs a reservation for wilderness camping.

Where can I camp? Anywhere along the trail north of Strachan Meadows, in a spot earlier campers have already cleared. BC Parks names Magnesia Meadows, Brunswick Lake and Deeks Lake as the best areas. There are no tent pads. You can't camp in the ski area, at Bowen Lookout, or anywhere in the park's southern part (Black Mountain, Mount Strachan, Hollyburn, Yew Lake).

Is there water? Not reliably on the first half. BC Parks says there's no reliable water between Strachan Meadows (Montizambert Creek) and Magnesia Meadows. My camp below the West Lion is in that stretch. There was some snow to melt for water in certain spots when I went, in mid-July. Later in the summer, carry what you need for the night and the next morning.

Can I climb the Lions? The East Lion, no: it's inside the Capilano watershed, which is closed to everyone. BC Parks' map marks it "no entry." The West Lion is a scramble off the trail; I didn't climb it, and I found no official closure. The peaks matter to the Squamish Nation, who call them the Twin Sisters.

Can I bring my dog? Dogs must be on a leash, and BC Parks says the backcountry isn't suitable for dogs because of the wildlife.

Can I fly a drone? Not without BC Parks' permission. Flying a drone in a BC park without it is illegal, and the trail map lists drones as prohibited.

Can I have a campfire? No. There's a permanent campfire ban in the park. Bring a stove.

Is there a phone signal? Not reliably. BC Parks says it's unreliable on the trail. Carry a satellite messenger or a phone with satellite SOS.

Two full days, camping at Magnesia Meadows or Brunswick Lake

My split, a short evening and a long second day, put all the scrambling and the dry stretch first thing in the morning. At a normal pace, start in the morning and camp at Magnesia Meadows (about 14.5 km from Cypress) or Brunswick Lake (19 km): water, a toilet at Magnesia, and a shorter, easier second day down past the lakes.

In one day

Strong, fast hikers do the whole trail in one day, about 12 to 14 hours, as reported. It's a very long day with the hardest terrain in the middle, and rescuers are often called to exhausted day hikers. Start at first light.

Southbound

Starting at Porteau Road and finishing at Cypress means about 800 m more climbing, starting from near sea level, and reaching the dry stretch at the end. Northbound, the way I went, is the usual direction.

Shorter hikes

St. Mark's Summit and back from Cypress is the popular day hike, about 11 km (7 miles) round trip, as reported. The Lions from Lions Bay (the Binkert trail) is another, steep and with tiny parking.

Before you go, check these

These change every year. Everything else in this guide stays the same.

Is it open?

• The BC Parks page for Cypress Park: its advisories, and what the 2026 construction at Magnesia Meadows, Brunswick Lake and Deeks Lake changed (new facilities, and any new camping rules, permits or fees)
• The Cypress trail report (BC Parks), for snow and trail conditions
• Fire bans and any trailhead closures, especially in a dry August
• The forecast for the Lions (Environment Canada for Cypress Park, or a mountain forecast for the peaks)

Getting there

• Your two cars, or your ride from Porteau Road, booked
• Lot 3B for overnight parking at Cypress
• If you're relying on it, whether Cypress Coach Lines is running that summer

Your stuff

• Water for the dry first half, a filter, a stove and fuel (bought in Vancouver)
• A bear hang kit or canister, bear spray, a head net, layers and a rain jacket
• Offline maps and the GPX files on your phone, and a satellite messenger