Adirondack High Peaks, Kraig Adams's way

The numbers are from my own GPS, smoothed the same way every day (see Using the GPX files).

My way in, 2020. I drove, with Shia, who doesn't really get out hiking that often, so she was a little skeptical of the long ride all the way to the Adirondacks. The night before, I stayed where I always stay, the Lake House in Lake Placid. It's a great spot, and they allow dogs; they welcome dogs. I picked up little booties for Shia, but after trying them on in the hotel room she did not like them at all, so we ditched that. That was a bad idea. In the morning I drove to the Adirondak Loj, paid for parking, checked in at the log book and started hiking.

My way in, 2019. I almost always find myself taking the train or bus up from New York City at least once a year to hike. In 2019 I came up on the Friday (my photos pass the Saratoga Springs train and bus station that afternoon) and started walking from Keene Valley on the Saturday morning. Exactly how I traveled isn't in my records.

By car. The Adirondak Loj is at the end of Adirondack Loj Road, which leaves Route 73 between Lake Placid and Keene. From the trailhead to the village of Lake Placid it's about 9 miles on the road; I walked it in 2019 (see My 2019 traverse).

Parking at the Loj (2026). The Adirondack Mountain Club (ADK) runs the lot: non-members $25 a day, $15 for a half day (after 1 p.m.), $120 for a multi-day or full-week stay; ADK members $10, $6 and $50. ADK's page doesn't say how a one-night trip is charged, so ask at the booth. ADK says its lots often fill before 6 a.m. on summer weekends and before 9 a.m. on weekdays. When they're full, ADK sends overflow parking to the lot at the end of Meadows Lane or the right side of Adirondack Loj Road from Meadows Lane toward Route 73 (about a mile), so you add a walk; there's no parking on the Loj Road between the booth and Meadows Lane, or along Meadows Lane. In 2020 I parked my car for two days for about $10 ($7 if you're an ADK member, I think it was).

Without a car (2026). Amtrak's Adirondack runs every day from New York to Westport, but its October 2026 timetable lists no bus on to Lake Placid, so you'd need a car service. Adirondack Trailways runs buses from New York's Port Authority to Lake Placid, about 10 hours with a change. Cape Air flies from Boston and New York JFK to Saranac Lake, about 20 minutes from Lake Placid. From Lake Placid to the Loj you need a taxi or car service: Lake Placid's visitor site lists a few, but no scheduled shuttle to the Loj, and says rides are sparse even in peak season, so book ahead.

Bear canisters. The High Peaks Information Center at the Loj rents them and sells maps and supplies (2026). It opens at 7 a.m. on weekdays and 6 a.m. on weekends, so for an early start, rent your canister the afternoon before. In 2020 I rented mine in Lake Placid at Eastern Mountain Sports. It was cheap: less than $20 for three days. Whether the Lake Placid EMS store still rents canisters wasn't confirmed in October 2026; call first.

The Adirondak Loj. I don't even know what "Loj" stands for, but there's a lodge, a gift shop and a small grill where you can get a delicious hamburger. ADK also runs a campground and the High Peaks Information Center there, and its food stand by the information center is the Hungry Hiker.

What I paid

For your budget (2026). Parking at the Loj is $25 a day or $120 for a multi-day or full-week stay for non-members ($10 and $50 for ADK members). The Garden lot in Keene Valley is $10 a day. There's no fee for the wilderness. A bus from New York to Lake Placid starts at about $136.

Where I slept, food and water

Where I slept

In 2019 I slept in Feldspar Lean-to (about 3,320 ft) and at a campsite near Scott Clearing on the Indian Pass Trail (about 2,380 ft).

Lake Colden. A camping area with lean-tos and designated tent sites along the lake, all first come, first served. Lean-tos are shared until full, normally 8 people; no tents inside.

At the Loj (2026). ADK's Adirondak Loj has rooms for up to 38 guests, and its Wilderness Campground has campsites, lean-tos and cabins, by reservation. Good for the night before if you'd rather not drive in the morning.

In Lake Placid (2026). The Lake House is now one of the buildings of the High Peaks Resort, on Mirror Lake. It takes up to two dogs per room, up to 75 pounds each, for $75 per dog per night, and dogs can't be left alone in the room.

Food

All mine, carried in the canister. In 2019 I bought it in town on the way: Twix, oatmeal, jerky, apples and oranges. In 2020 my gear list included Mountain House meals and a Jetboil. There's nothing to buy on the trail. At the Loj, the Hungry Hiker food stand serves American food, ice cream and beer; ADK's two pages disagree on its hours (daily 1 to 8 p.m., or 1 to 7:30 p.m. Thursday to Monday) and neither gives a fall closing date, so check before you count on it.

Water

Plenty: Marcy Brook, Feldspar Brook, the Opalescent River, Lake Colden and streams on both days. The summits are dry, so fill up before you climb. Treat or filter everything. In 2017 I learned that a straw filter is good for drinking from a stream but not for filling bottles; bring a filter that fills bottles.

Toilets and waste

Use the restrooms at the Loj before you start. On the trail, use a privy where there is one; otherwise bury waste at least 150 ft from water, camps and trails, and pack out toilet paper. Nothing goes into the water.

Gear for this route

What this route needs

• A hard bear canister (rent one at the Loj)
• Boots or shoes for mud, roots and wet rock, and gaiters if you have them
• Warm and rain layers, a hat and gloves: it's cold and windy on top in October
• Microspikes late in the fall, and snowshoes once there's 8 inches of snow (it's the rule)
• A stove (no campfires), a water filter, a headlamp
• Something orange in hunting season
• A map, the GPX files and a satellite messenger

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I carried everything for two days and a night at Lake Colden in October 2020, with my parents' dog. Here's what I carried, what I'd take now, and what I filmed with.

What I carried in 2020

From my 2020 film's gear list.

Hiking

• Pack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Southwest 2400 (Hyperlite)
• Tent: NEMO Hornet 1P (NEMO), now the Hornet OSMO. I slept in the lean-to.
• Quilt: UGQ Bandit quilt (UGQ). Similar: Hyperlite Mountain Gear 20° Quilt (Hyperlite).
• Liner: Outdoor Vitals Sleeping Bag Liner (Amazon)
• Sleeping pad: a Therm-a-Rest mat
• Pillow: Klymit Pillow X (Amazon)
• Stove: Jetboil MicroMo (Amazon). No campfires in the Eastern High Peaks.
• Spork: Sea to Summit Alpha Light long spoon (Amazon)
• Food: Mountain House meals (Amazon). All of it in the canister.
• Water: Katadyn BeFree AC · 1L (Amazon)
• Headlamp: SLONIK rechargeable headlamp (Amazon)
• Satellite messenger: Garmin inReach Mini (Amazon)
• Shirt: Amazon Essentials Quick-Dry Tech Hoodie (Amazon)
• Sweatshirt: Amazon Essentials crewneck fleece sweatshirt (Amazon)
• Puffy: Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket. Similar: Arc’teryx Cerium Hoody (Arc’teryx).
• Rain shell: The North Face Dryzzle jacket. Similar: Arc’teryx Beta AR Jacket (Arc’teryx).
• Pants: Patagonia Terrebonne Joggers. Similar: PATH Projects Killam PX Pant (PATH Projects).
• Shorts: quick-dry hiking shorts
• Winter hat: Muji boucle watch cap. Similar: PATH Projects Hoyt Merino Beanie (PATH Projects).
• Cap: ZOWYA running cap (Amazon)
• Sunglasses: Warby Parker Barkley sunglasses. Similar: Goodr OG Sunglasses (Amazon).
• Socks: People Socks merino crew socks (Amazon)
• Shoes: Brooks Cascadia 13 (Amazon), now the Cascadia 20
• In 2019: a hammock, a clear plastic bear canister (the wrong kind: see Permits and rules) and a rain jacket that wasn't really waterproof. I wore my white hat and a light gray sun hoodie: very lightweight, and it dries quickly.

Other

• Bear canister: a rented hard bear canister. Rented in Lake Placid for less than $20.
• Bear spray: Counter Assault bear spray (Amazon)

What I'd take now

What I'd add for this route from my current kit.

Hiking

• Sleeping pad: Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT (Amazon)
• Sleeping bag: Hyperlite Mountain Gear 20° Mummy Bag (Hyperlite). It's cold on top in October.
• Rain shell: Arc’teryx Beta AR Jacket (Arc’teryx). Cold and windy on top in October.
• Poles: Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Z Poles (Amazon). For mud and wet rock.
• Microspikes: Yatta Life Ice Spikes (Amazon). Late in the fall.

Other

• Navigation: AllTrails+ (AllTrails, 30% off). Load my GPX files and download offline maps before you leave Lake Placid. Offline maps need the paid plan.

Filming kit

What I filmed this trip with in 2020. My setup is much smaller now (below). No drones in the wilderness: see Permits and rules.

Hiking

• Batteries: Sony NP-FZ100 batteries (Amazon). Two of them.
• Phone: an iPhone 11 Pro

Filmmaking

• Camera: Sony a6600 (Amazon)
• Lens: Sony E 10-18mm f/4 OSS (Amazon)
• Mic: Rode VideoMic NTG (Amazon). With a dead cat for the wind.
• Tripod: a tripod
• Tripod head: Joby ball head (Amazon)
• Wrist strap: Peak Design Cuff Wrist Strap (Amazon)
• Drone: DJI Mavic Air 2. Flown only outside the wilderness. Similar: DJI Mini 5 Pro (Amazon).

What I film with now

Since September 2026 I film with a smaller setup: the Pocket 4 and the Mic 3 on the trail, and the Mini 5 Pro in the air.

• Camera: DJI Osmo Pocket 4 (Amazon)
• Mic: DJI Mic 3 · 1 TX + 1 RX (Amazon). It pairs with the Pocket 4.
• Drone: DJI Mini 5 Pro (Amazon)
• Tripod: SmallRig Carbon Fiber Tripod (Amazon)

These are New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) rules for the Eastern High Peaks Wilderness, checked on DEC's own pages and in the regulation (6 NYCRR 190.13) on October 1, 2026. The whole loop and my 2019 route are in the Eastern High Peaks.

Permits. None for hiking or camping in 2026, and no fee. Sign in and out at the trail register so people know where you went in and came out; the rule is to sign every DEC register you pass. In April 2026 DEC released consultants' visitor-use reports for the High Peaks and asked for comments. For Adirondack Loj Road (the Loj and South Meadow trailheads) they recommend a limit of about 400 visitors a day, by managing parking or with a hiking reservation system, and press reports on the full report say it suggests parking attendants and permits there Thursday to Sunday, June to October, starting in summer 2027. In June 2026 DEC said no policy changes were anticipated, and it hadn't adopted the recommendations by October 2026. If you're going in 2027, check DEC's High Peaks page for a permit or parking reservation.

Group size. At most 15 people on a day trip and 8 overnight. DEC doesn't give permits for bigger groups here.

Bear canisters. Required for overnight campers in the Eastern High Peaks from April 1 to November 30: all food, garbage and toiletries, in a commercially made hard canister. Bag hangs don't count. DEC warns that bears here "have regularly defeated bear-resistant canisters made of clear plastic." In 2019 I went to REI right before the trip and bought one of the clear blue smaller ones, thinking it would be okay. On the trail a ranger checked my bear canister and told me that bears can open and crack those. You really need the heavy-duty ones: the big, thick black plastic canisters you can rent. See Getting there for where.

Camping. No camping above 4,000 ft, and between 3,500 and 4,000 ft only at designated sites. Use designated sites where you can, and pitch within 15 ft of the site's DEC disk; anywhere else, camp at least 150 ft from any road, trail or water. No camping on summits. From South Meadow to Flowed Lands, which takes in Marcy Dam and Lake Colden, the regulation keeps camping to designated sites once DEC has marked them all, and you must follow its posted camping signs. At Lake Colden there are lean-tos and designated sites.

Lean-tos. First come, first served; they can't be reserved. Share them until they're full, normally 8 people. No tents inside a lean-to, and DEC says to pitch tents at least 150 ft from one.

Fires. No campfires anywhere in the Eastern High Peaks. Carry a stove.

Dogs. Leashed at all times in the Eastern High Peaks, never left alone, and carry proof of your dog's current rabies vaccination.

Other rules. No drones, no bikes, no glass containers. Quiet hours 10 p.m. to 7 a.m. As I said in 2019: this is a wilderness, so that's no drones, no fires, and you sign in and out. Leave no trace. Just know the rules, and please respect these places. A DEC sign at the trail register at Heart Lake lists the same rules.

Above the trees. Marcy and Algonquin have rare alpine plants on their summits. Summit stewards ask you to walk only on bare rock.

Fall. I did this hike the first week of October. The first, second and third weeks of October are peak for fall, and you're going to get those burnt orange, amber, red and yellow leaves. It's different at different heights: the valleys are a bit different than up in the mountains. I LOVE NY's foliage report had Lake Placid at peak for September 30 to October 6 in 2026.

Summer. My 2019 trip was in early September. It rained the first day, and that made the trails very muddy.

Weather. The Adirondacks almost have their own weather system. Rain can come in out of nowhere, and it can be beautiful on one side and rainy on the other. That's what I got in 2020: blue sky on Marcy, and on the second day rain, then sun, then rain again. In October it can be below freezing on the summits; check the mountain forecast (see Weather and safety).

Hunting season. October is hunting season in the Northern Zone: bear from September 19 to December 6, 2026, and the regular deer season from October 24. Wear something bright orange, and put an orange vest on your dog.

Weather and safety

Emergencies. Call 911 or the DEC Forest Ranger emergency dispatch, 833-NYS-RANGERS (1-833-697-7264). If you're lost or hurt, stay calm and stay put. Don't count on a phone signal in the valleys.

Mountain weather. Use the National Weather Service's mountain forecast for Mount Marcy (weather.gov/btv/mountain). The summits are often much colder and windier than Lake Placid. Turn back if it's bad: you can go around Algonquin through Avalanche Pass.

Wet rock and slabs. The steep side of Algonquin and the summit rock are slippery when wet, and in October they can ice up. Later in the fall, carry traction such as microspikes (the information center rents trail crampons); once there are 8 inches or more of snow, the rules require snowshoes or skis.

High water. DEC warns that streams can become impassable within minutes in heavy rain. On this loop, DEC lists the Van Hoevenberg Trail's crossings of Phelps Brook above Marcy Dam and at Indian Falls among the crossings hit by high water; the Lake Arnold trail's Opalescent crossing, a way off on Day 1, is another. If one is high on your way out, DEC's advice is to be ready to wait it out.

Hypothermia. Wet and windy is the danger, even in summer. Carry dry layers.

Bears. Use your canister for all food, garbage and toiletries, and keep it away from your sleeping spot.

Hunting. October is hunting season in the Northern Zone; wear orange.

Leave a plan with someone at home: your start, your route, your camp and when you'll be out.

How many days do I need? I did it in two: 13 miles summiting Mount Marcy the first day, as I put it in the film, and only 8 back out to Heart Lake over Algonquin the second (11.6 and 6.7 on my GPS). I think it's a good loop most people can do; you just have to be prepared for the weather. If you want an easier time, take three days and spend two nights at Lake Colden. See Other ways to do it.

How hard is it? Harder than the miles look. If you watch my videos you're probably thinking that's not that many miles for a full day of hiking, and that's the thing about the Adirondacks: it's tough to do more than 15 miles in a day. It's so dense and wooded and muddy and rocky. The climb up Algonquin from Lake Colden is the steepest part: about 2,300 ft in under 2 miles on my GPS.

Do I need a permit? No permit or reservation for the High Peaks Wilderness in 2026. You do sign in at the trail register at the trailhead. There's no quota yet, but a state study recommends limiting the Loj's road to about 400 visitors a day from 2027, possibly with permits (see Permits and rules).

Do I need a bear canister? Yes, for any overnight trip in the Eastern High Peaks from April 1 to November 30. It has to be a hard canister. In 2019 a ranger told me bears can crack the clear one I'd bought (see Permits and rules).

Where do I park? At the Adirondack Mountain Club's lot at the Adirondak Loj. In 2026 it's $25 a day for non-members, or $120 for a multi-day or full-week stay, and it fills early. In 2020 I paid about $10 for two days.

Can I have a campfire? No. Campfires are banned everywhere in the Eastern High Peaks. Bring a stove.

Can I bring my dog? Yes, on a leash. In the Eastern High Peaks dogs must be leashed at all times. Shia came with me in 2020. See Hiking with a dog.

Where do I sleep? Lake Colden has lean-tos and designated campsites. I slept in the Opalescent Lean-to. Lean-tos are first come, first served, and you share them.

Which way should I go? I went over Marcy first, so the longer day came first and I climbed up Algonquin's steep Lake Colden side. Going the other way, you'd go down that side instead.

Three days instead of two

Spend two nights at Lake Colden. On the middle day you could climb Mount Colden from the lake, or go up and back to Iroquois Peak from the col beside Algonquin, or just rest. Remember that you can't camp above 3,500 ft except at designated sites.

The other way round

Up Algonquin from the Loj first, down its steep side to Lake Colden, then over Marcy on Day 2. The Lake Colden side of Algonquin is then a steep descent, which is harder on the knees and worse when it's wet.

Through Avalanche Pass

Instead of going over Algonquin on Day 2, walk out from Lake Colden through Avalanche Pass, past Avalanche Lake, to Marcy Dam and the Loj. It's the low route and the one to use in bad weather. On my 2017 trip, from Heart Lake, I went in this way, past Avalanche Lake, camped near Lake Colden, climbed Algonquin, and came out over Mount Colden the next day. The pass reopened in August 2026 after the 2025 slides; the two designated campsites at Avalanche Lake are closed.

Marcy as a day hike

Up and back from the Loj on the Van Hoevenberg Trail: 7.2 miles each way on my GPS, about 14.4 miles round trip (the usual figure is 14.8). Start early.

Start in Keene Valley

My 2019 route: from the Garden up Johns Brook to Marcy. See My 2019 traverse.

My 2019 traverse: Keene Valley to Lake Placid

Distance

24.7 mi (39.7 km) on trail over 3 days, plus 9.0 mi (14.4 km) on the road to Lake Placid

Climbing

6,335 ft (1,931 m) on trail

Descent

5,230 ft (1,594 m) on trail

Time I took

3 days, September 7 to 9, 2019

High point

Mount Marcy, 5,344 ft, Day 1

Sleep

Feldspar Lean-to (night 1), a campsite near Scott Clearing on the Indian Pass Trail (night 2)

This hike was a little more challenging than I expected. It rained the first day, and that made the trails very muddy. The Adirondacks are very forested. It's very difficult to get through this dense, mossy, rooted trail, and extremely difficult when it's muddy like it was. But to be honest, that's what I love about hiking: you face challenges and you overcome them, no matter what. Figure it out, get creative, and tough it through.

It's a one-way trip: it starts in Keene Valley and ends at Heart Lake, so you need a ride, or you do what I did and walk the road into Lake Placid.

Day 1: Keene Valley over Mount Marcy to Feldspar

I bought my food in town right before I headed out: Twix, oatmeal, jerky, apples, oranges, all of that. I started walking from Keene Valley at about 8:45 a.m., up Johns Brook Lane to the Garden trailhead (mile 1.3), then up the Johns Brook valley on the Phelps Trail, onto the Hopkins Trail near Bushnell Falls (mile 6.2), and up to the Van Hoevenberg Trail below Marcy's summit. I summited Mount Marcy, the highest point in New York, in rain and wind at about 2 p.m. (mile 9.9). Then down the west side past Lake Tear of the Clouds to Feldspar Lean-to (mile 12.2) by about 5. It rained a lot that trip. I had a black rain jacket that says it's waterproof. Not really: I was just soaked that entire first day.

I had my hammock on this trip, and I think I'm not going to hammock camp anymore. It always sounds better than it actually is. On the first night it was raining, so I decided to just sleep in the lean-to. There were four other people, so it was kind of tight quarters. They say six max, but that would be kind of crazy. (DEC's rule is to share a lean-to until it's full, normally 8 people.)

Day 2: Feldspar over Mount Marshall to Scott Clearing

Down the Opalescent to Lake Colden, then toward Flowed Lands to the start of the Herbert Brook herd path (mile 2.9), and up it to the summit of Mount Marshall (4,360 ft, mile 4.8) by about 2:15 p.m. Mount Marshall has no maintained trail: the herd path is unofficial, and hikers describe it as crossing the brook many times and unmarked near the top. From the summit I went down the herd path to Cold Brook Pass and the Cold Brook Pass trail to the Indian Pass Trail (mile 7.2) and camped near Scott Clearing (mile 8.1) at about 6:20 p.m. It took me ten hours to go 8 miles.

Day 3: Indian Pass Trail to Heart Lake, and the road to Lake Placid

The Indian Pass Trail north is nearly flat, about 230 ft of climbing: past Rocky Falls (mile 1.8) to the trail register at Heart Lake (mile 4.0) and the Adirondak Loj (mile 4.4) in two hours. Then I walked to Lake Placid: Adirondack Loj Road to Route 73 and into the village, 9 miles in three hours.

What has changed on this route (October 2026)

DEC's trail notices on October 1, 2026 list problems on or near the 2019 route:

• Feldspar Lean-to: the bridge over the Opalescent to the lean-to has a broken stringer. Use caution.
• Calamity Brook Trail: its high-water bridge over Calamity Brook, on the way in from Upper Works, is out, and that trail may be impassable in heavy rain. DEC plans to repair it in late fall 2026. It isn't on my route: I used only the short stretch of that trail from Lake Colden to the Herbert Brook herd path.
• Cold Brook Pass trail: not maintained since Tropical Storm Irene in 2011. Expect blowdown and a faint tread. DEC says it's not a good way out in high water, because of the crossings on the Indian Pass Trail.
• Indian Pass Brook: on DEC's list of crossings hit by high water.

Mount Marshall's herd path needs map and compass skills, and the Cold Brook descent is rough. If you're not comfortable off marked trails, do the loop in this guide instead, or climb Marshall and go back the way you came.

Getting to the start. The Garden trailhead at the top of Johns Brook Lane is $10 a day (2026); when it's full, the Town sends you to the Rooster Comb lot. The Town of Keene ran a shuttle from Marcy Field to the Garden on weekends from July 4 to October 11, 2026, $10 a person for a round trip, cash only. The Town tows cars parked along Johns Brook, Market and Adirondack Streets in Keene Valley.

Keene Valley. In 2019 I listed my places to visit in Keene Valley: Valley Grocery for groceries, the Noon Mark Diner, Old Mountain Coffee Company and the bar at the Keene Valley Ausable Inn. All four were still listed in 2026. I also listed the Keene Valley Hostel, which may have closed: check before you plan on it.

Watch this trip

Film, Day 1 · Day 2 · Day 3 · Behind the scenes

Hiking with a dog

Shia is my parents' dog. I grew up with her; she was about nine, a yellow lab mixed with something. She doesn't really get out hiking that often, but once she was there she was hiking faster than me. She does not like going back and forth while I set up the camera.

The rules (2026). Dogs must be leashed at all times in the Eastern High Peaks, kept under control and never left alone, and you must carry proof of your dog's current rabies vaccination. Dog food goes in the bear canister with yours. Dogs aren't allowed at all on the Adirondack Mountain Reserve (the Ausable Club land at St. Huberts), which this loop doesn't use.

What I learned. She wouldn't wear the booties I bought her, so we ditched them. She was a little cold at the end of Day 2, and I covered her with my shell. She got very muddy. Bring a towel for the car, and something warm for the dog in the fall.

Hunting season. In October, put a bright orange vest on your dog.

Lodging. The Lake House in Lake Placid welcomes dogs (2026: up to two per room, up to 75 pounds each, $75 per dog per night).

Before you go, check these

These change every year. Everything else in this guide stays the same.

Rules and closures

• DEC's backcountry notices for the High Peaks: closures, bridges, Avalanche Pass work (dec.ny.gov, Backcountry Information for the Adirondack Park)
• Whether DEC has started a permit, reservation or daily limit for the Loj and the High Peaks (a 2026 study recommended one from summer 2027)
• The bear canister rule (hard canisters, April 1 to November 30)

Getting there

• Parking prices at the Adirondak Loj (ADK posts a new page each year)
• The Garden lot and the Keene shuttle, if you start in Keene Valley
• Trailways and Amtrak times, if you're coming without a car

Conditions

• The mountain forecast: weather.gov/btv/mountain
• Fall color reports (iloveny.com) and hunting season dates (dec.ny.gov)

Your stuff

• A hard bear canister, a stove, a filter, warm and rain layers, a headlamp
• A leash, an orange vest and proof of a current rabies vaccination for your dog
• Offline maps and the GPX files on your phone